Maps. See our map.
Skill: 3 (advanced)
Fitness: 2 (intermediate)
Middle East, Dungeon, Sanctuary pdf: Pictures and route info (this takes awhile to load).
Shady summer climbing:
Middle East Wall. The Middle East and Sunshine walls are the two great column-bearing palisades supporting the central mesa traversed by the Near Trail. The south-facing Sunshine Wall is pleasantly warmed by the sun in winter, spring and fall, and an inferno in summer. The north-facing Middle East Wall sees sun only in early morning and late afternoon around the summer solstice, and is spackled with brilliant orange-yellow lichens. The Middle East Wall, and the recently developed sport walls one level below, are ideal places to climb on hot summer days. Note: To protect nesting falcons, Middle East Wall is closed to climbing from May 1 to August 1.
Climbing at the Middle East Wall is similar to the Sunshine Wall but there are fewer bolted lines and, in general, the climbs are several grades harder. Also, there are fewer anchors and some hangers don’t have chains—it’s a good idea to climb with a few slings and descending rings to donate to the cause. Because this area sees (enjoys?) far fewer climbers than its sunny counterpart, even the best routes may be grungy near the top. And while there are climbs at Frenchman Coulee protected from the biting spring wind (Riverview Columns, Riverview Park, Millennium Wall, etc.) you will get no relief here.
Post Wall, Dungeon, Sanctuary. From the central routes of the Middle East Wall (near the route Jihad ), take the switchbacks down and left (west) to the base of the Postal Wall, the first and easiest of the three sport walls below Middle East Wall. Or, use a trail from the Old Vantage Highway that switchbacks up to the Sanctuary and then traverses east. Warning: You’ll probably be ticketed if you park off the road here. Park in the main
climber’s parking lot and walk the road to this lower trail if your goal is to clip bolts on these lower walls and not climb above at Middle East Wall. Regardless of the approach, those comfortable climbing at the 5.10C/D level should have fun, even if some of the climbs become projects. There aren’t many routes here yet (we have listed 13), but a walk along the base reveals vast potential. All we need are a couple of retired climbers with Bosches.
An introduction to climbing at Frenchman Coulee. Learn about the area’s environment, seasons, required permits, camping, geology, botany, bird life, other activities… (this takes a moment to load).
Trip Reporter: Selected Climbs of Frenchman Coulee has been compiled, photographed, and written by Marc A. Dilley, a Wenatchee-based climber well-versed in the area’s routes and natural history.
Leave It Better than You Found It. This should be every user’s goal. Pick up trash left by others, pull noxious weeds along your route, throw branches over unwanted spur trails, etc.
Disclaimer. Treat this information as recommendations, not gospel. Conditions change and those contributing these reports are volunteers–they may make mistakes or not know all the issues affecting a route. You are responsible for yourself, your actions, and your safety. If you won’t accept that responsibility, you are prohibited from using our information.
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