Editors Note: Calling all Washington State rock climbers! This is a project worth paying attention to for your safety and for the safety of other climbers in Washington State. All information in this article along with the photos in this article came from the WARP website.
The Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP) is a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition with a core mission to replace aging and unsafe climbing anchors throughout Washington State. In 2016, WARP became a part of the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC), and is run by the WCC board with focused committees and an advisory team which includes local IFMGA guide and WARP founder, Kurt Hicks. To give you some background on the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) it was founded with a small grant from the Access Fund in 2004. Since then they have developed an active stewardship and outreach program, promoting responsible climbing and public access at areas around the state.
For 2019 WARP, is continuing the successful initiative they launched last year to ensure hardware funding with the support of business and industry friends. Through community support in 2018, “Join the Rebolt!” raised over $6,000. This generosity enabled WARP to award 10 Hardware Replacement Grants to 8 volunteers who used materials supplied to replace 309 bolts and 26 anchors on 43 routes with all stainless steel hardware at 9 different crags.
WARP also identified in 2018 that the real crux of bolt replacement is finding qualified individuals to do the work. That is why this year in addition to continuing Join the Rebolt! WARP is launching Ground School to teach interested individuals the necessary skills to be successful and efficient with bolt replacement work.
With the continuing support of hardware from honorary sponsors, Petzl and Fixe Hardware, replacing a minimalist anchor consisting of 2 stainless steel bolts, 2 stainless steel hangers, 2 rated stainless steel quick links and 2 stainless steel rap rings costs WARP over $30.00. To replace a preferred style anchor with the addition of stainless steel chain pushes the cost to over $52.00. This means that for WARP to supply a rebolter with the hardware to re-equip the average route consisting of 10 bolts and a two-bolt anchor, their cost will be between $90.00 and $110.00. A wall with 20 routes is around $2,000.00. For a whole crag, you can imagine the price to replace the gear can get pretty costly.
Join the Rebolt! comes at a critical time for climbers: the hardware put in by previous generations is at the end of its lifespan and many placements have become dangerous. You can donate, volunteer or assist with these efforts by becoming involved with WARP. Click below for more information.
For more information click here.