new-school or old-school here.Access. Follow the Lost River Road 3 miles northwest (upstream) of the Mazama Store. Park on the left (west side) at the “Swimming Hole” pull out. For Prime Rib, walk about 100 yards NW (upstream) on the road to find a good path leading up to the talus field below the wall. For Flyboys, walk about 200 feet southeast (downstream) on the road to find a path leading up to the talus field below the wall. Roughly 25 to 30 minutes to reach the base of most of the climbs below.
Map: Location schematic.
Descent: Most (but not all) of the bolted routes can be rappelled with a single 60-meter rope. Or you can use a car shuttle to walk off most of these routes. Drive from Mazama to Goat Creek Road, taking a left at the fork about 3 miles toward Goat Peak Lookout Trailhead. Park at the cattle guard (around 5500′). Drive time is about 30-40 minutes. A trail follows the east side of the fence and is about a 10-minute walk to the top of Goat Wall.
Here are the route details, pictures, and our topos for specific routes on Goat Wall. Several of these links take you to The Mountain Project website.
- Prime Rib (III, 5.9-) Nine to 11 pitches, sport climbing.(WenatcheeOutdoors Guidebook).
- Flyboys (IV, 5.9) 18 pitches, sport climb, 70-meter rope if rappelling route (Mountain Project).
- Sisyphus (III+, 5.11a or 5.10b A0) (Mountain Project Guidebook).
- Promised Land (II, 5.10c) if only doing the first three pitches (sport climbing, rappel with two 60-meter ropes). There are another nine pitches (trad climbing) if you want a full-fledged adventure (IV, 5.11a/A2). (Mountain Project Guidebook).
- Methow Inspiration Route (II, 5.9+) Five pitches, sport climb (Mountain Project Guidebook).
Leave It Better Than You Found It: This should be every outdoor user’s goal. Pick up trash left by others, pull some noxious weeds along your route, throw branches over unwanted spur trails, don’t ride or walk wet trails when you’re leaving ruts/footprints deeper than ¼ inch…
Disclaimer. Treat this information as recommendations, not gospel. Conditions change and those contributing these reports are volunteers–they may make mistakes or not know all the issues affecting a route. You are responsible for yourself, your actions, and your safety. If you won’t accept that responsibility, you are prohibited from using our information.
This post was prepared by Andy Dappen and first published on 9/30/2013 and last updated July 2022.
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