Condor Buttress-Condoraphamine Addiction

Adapted from Summitpost.org:
Condorphamine Addiction is a high quality 7 pitch 5.10B slab climb put up by Leland Windham in the year 2000. The route follows a direct line up the 600 foot northeast face of the Condor Buttress, a large outcropping of granite in Icicle Creek Canyon offering excellent views into the Stuart Range. The climbing is very nice. This route sees a fair amount of traffic, so it is free of lichen and moss.

Nearest Town: Leavenworth

Uses: Rock climbing

Skill: 4

Fitness: 3

Map. Our topo map below will help you access the route and other crags in the Icicle.

Access:

• Follow Icicle River Road upstream some 8 miles to Bridge Creek. Park roughly 0.2 miles past the Eightmile Road (the road up to Stuart and Colchuck lakes). There’s a sizable pullover on the left that can easily take 8 or more cars (largest pull out in general area).
• The trail up to Bathtub and Condor Buttress is about 50 yards downhill (back toward Eightmile Rd) from the pull out. From the pull out you can see Condor Buttress and the white streak composing Condoraphamine Addiction. To the left and lower you can also see the upper tier of Bathtub Dome with its two prominent white streaks.
• At a good clip, the hike up to Condorphamine takes roughly 45 to 50 minutes. The route is obvious as you approach it. Look for the white streak in the lichen and all the bolts.
• The start of route has two options (left option is 5.10b or 5.10c) and very well protected. The route requires little description — follow the scrubbed rock and the bolts.
• Some call the route 7 pitches long but that assumes short pitches. Run the pitches together and it goes in 3.5 pitches.
• If you do this in long pitches you should probably have 16 to 20 quick draws The route is fun with interesting moves, is well protected, and doesn’t require anything but quick draws for protection. Take a selection of different length runners to reduce rope drag if you run pitches together.
• Rappel the route. Two ropes are recommended for the rappel. You can do the descent with one rope but it’s tedious.

Leave It Better than You Found It. This should be every user’s goal. Pick up trash left by others, pull noxious weeds along your route, throw branches over unwanted spur trails, etc.

Disclaimer. Treat this information as recommendations, not gospel. Conditions change and those contributing these reports are volunteers–they may make mistakes or not know all the issues affecting a route. You are responsible for yourself, your actions, and your safety. If you won’t accept that responsibility, you are prohibited from using our information.