Givler’s Crack on Givler’s Dome is an Icicle classic and one of the most popular climbs around Leavenworth. It’s a beautiful hand crack with a few 5.8 moves that generally feels more like a 5.7 climb. The dome is easily recognized from the parking area as you look uphill to the north from the Icicle Road. The white streak from all the traffic on the crack splits the dome into two hemispheres. Most people visit the dome to climb Givler’s Crack but, while you’re up there, try some of the adjacent routes. If they’re harder or more strung out than you prefer, top rope them.
Access. From Icicle Junction on the west end of Leavenworth, drive the Icicle Road 5.95 to 6 miles. Park in pullouts on the south side of the road just past the bridge providing access to Hook Creek Boulder.
Climber’s Trail. From the Icicle Road, walk uphill on a trail starting on the right of Alphabet Rock. Walk to 20 to 25 minutes uphill to the base of the dome.
Map. Our topo map below will help you locate the crag.
Difficulty. The climbs we feature range from 5.8 to 5.10c in difficulty. Some of the slab climbs listed are run out and you may want to top rope them first.
Rope. One 50- or 60-meter rope.
Descent. Walk off the top.
Gear. Standard rack for Givler’s Crack and Bo Derek, quickdraws for bolted routes.
Selected Climbs. As seen from left to right as you face the dome:
- Bo Derek, a stellar, 5.10b crack. Starting right of a flake part way up a steep yellow wall, head up to the flake and move left into the crack above the flake. It’s a steep, pumpy push. Gear to 1.5”.
- Wilson/McNerthney Route, 5.10c. A bolted route paralleling Givler’s Crack to the left. If you don’t have the head for moderately strung out 5.10c slab climbing, top rope this one.
- Givler’s Crack, 5.8. Most parties do this extremely popular crack as 2 pitches. The first short pitch has a few 5.8 moves. The second pitch is 5.7. Gear to 3”.
- Neat Route, 5.10b. Starting right of Givler’s Crack and from the second ledge, move up past 4 bolts before reconnecting with the Givler’s Crack.
- It Doesn’t Get Any Neater Than This, 5.10a. Starting right of Neat and a ledge higher, follow the bolts above the blocks on the left side of the ledge. The bolts are spaced enough to make you sweat.
- Just for the Bolt of It, 5.10a. There are a few 5.10 bolted routes right of ‘Neater’ we omitted (run out and potentially dangerous). This route follows a string of 5 bolts.
For more climbs at Givler’s Dome and on crags passed en route, see Leavenworth Rock by Viktor Kramar.
Leave It Better Than You Found It: This should be every outdoor user’s goal. Pick up trash left by others, pull some noxious weeds along your route, throw branches over unwanted spur trails, don’t ride or walk wet trails when you’re leaving ruts/footprints deeper than ¼ inch.
Disclaimer. Treat this information as recommendations, not gospel. Conditions change and those contributing these reports are volunteers–they may make mistakes or not know all the issues affecting a route. You are responsible for yourself, your actions, and your safety. If you won’t accept that responsibility, you are prohibited from using our information.
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