Flyboys 18 Pitch V 5.9+

This new multi-pitch route is in Mazama, WA area. It is unique in that it is a 18 pitch fully “sport” route. This is a route created by Bryan Burdo.

Parking is at the pull off for the swimming hole and parking for Prime Rib and Restless Natives. Walk 200 feet back down the road to the east, the trail will be visible on the opposite side of the road. Follow the trail up into the woods. Continue on the trail through the boulder field until you come to a Y in the trail. To the right takes you to Restless Natives and to the left will take you to Flyboys. Follow the trail to the gully where cairns take you up the gully and exit right at the largest cairn. The start of the climb is next to the tall dead tree. The hike should take about 30 minutes.

The route is designed both as a walk off or a separate rap that parallels the climb. Rappel stations are visible either on the way up or when rappelling down. Belay stations have 3 bolts at the top of all pitches. Rappel stations have three bolts and two chains. Do not confuse the two. If you are climbing the route a 60 meter rope and 16 draws will suffice. At the top of the route follow the cairns to the top of the trail where it joins the walk off trail to Prime Rib. It is about 20 to 30 minutes back to the road. If you intend to rap the route a 60 meter rope with knots in the ends will deliver you back down to the base of the route. Be ADVISED that all 60 meter raps are rope stretchers. A 70 meter rope is advisable for safer rappels. Do not take this climb lightly. This is an alpine sport route. Although pitches are bolted this is a long and challenging route.

1. 5.9    9 bolts    From the large snag route starts 40 feet to the right in a right facing corner. Thin face crux up high.
2. 5.6    8 bolts    Easy ramp to 15 foot block, mantle onto slab and continue to chains.
3. 5.8    10 bolts  Steep face to staircase leading to exposed belay.
4. 5.9    11 bolts   Traverse left into intricate face moves followed by sustained face climbing.
5. 5.6    5 bolts    When second arrives move belay 4 feet towards gully. Extend 3rd bolt with runner to avoid rope drag. Continue past rappel anchor to base of pitch 6.
6. 5.8+  9 bolts   Tricky bulge leads to excellent arête climbing. Walk 40 meters south to base of wall to start next pitch.
7. 5.9+  8 bolts    Stemming corner leads to steep and wild face moves into crack.
8. 5.8+  16 bolts  Sustained enjoyable climbing leads to large ledge with cairn and 50 meter walk to south to start next pitch.
9. 5.9    15 bolts   Perfect pocket pitch. Scramble up and to the right of flag tree for next pitch.
10. 5.9+  10 bolts  Overhanging jugs in broken flakes leads to expose belay.
11. 5.7     14 bolts  Diagonal face leads to clean slab. Walk past trees to south 50 yards to start of pitch 12.
12. 5.7     9 bolts    Sustained moderate climbing through corners and overlaps.
13. 5.8    14 bolts   Continue climbing through corners and overlaps.
14. 5.9+  9 bolts    Stay left on arête to short face followed by traversing flake into squeeze chimney.
15. 5.4     6 bolts    Follow bolts through easy slab trending left to stance above gully.
16. 5.8     7 bolts    Step across abyss to exposed arête and jug ladder. Scramble 3rd class past lone pine tree to start of 17.
17. 5.7    10 bolts   Boulder start leads to step face trending right.
18. 5.9+  10 bolts  3 consecutive 5.9+ boulder problems lead to exposed finish.